Puppy chewing: why it happens, what is normal, and how to redirect safely

A puppy who is chewing the furniture, shoes, and anything else they can reach is not being destructive out of spite or boredom alone — they are doing exactly what their developmental biology is designed to do. Chewing is a normal, necessary behaviour for puppies at every stage: in young puppies, mouthing and chewing serve exploration and play; from around 12 weeks through to 7 months, chewing provides relief as deciduous (baby) teeth loosen and adult teeth erupt; in adolescent dogs, chewing is often a stress-relief and enrichment behaviour in its own right.

The ASPCA and RSPCA both make clear that chewing is a normal behaviour and that the management approach — preventing access to inappropriate items and providing suitable alternatives — is more effective and humane than attempting to punish the chewing away. The goal is not to stop a puppy chewing; it is to direct that chewing toward appropriate outlets.

Why puppies chew: the developmental stages

From 8–12 weeks, puppies use mouthing and chewing to explore and interact with the world. From 12 weeks to 7 months, teething intensifies the drive to chew — the pressure of erupting adult teeth appears to provide relief from gum discomfort. After the adult teeth are in (typically by 6–7 months), chewing continues as an enrichment behaviour and, for many breeds, a deeply satisfying activity throughout life. Terriers, retrievers, herding breeds and scent hounds often show particularly strong chewing drive. Some puppies chew more when under-exercised, bored, or anxious — if chewing escalates alongside other signs of distress, consult your vet or a certified trainer.

Safe chews and toys: what works at what stage

Not all chews are appropriate for all puppies. Puppy teeth and jaws are weaker than adult equivalents, and hard chews that could cause tooth fracture should be avoided until the adult dentition is fully established. The general rule of thumb for chew hardness: if you cannot dent the surface with your thumbnail, it is probably too hard for a puppy. Suitable options include: rubber Kong-style toys stuffed with food; puppy-specific rope toys; soft natural chews such as bully sticks or collagen sticks; frozen carrot or frozen Kong stuffed with puppy-appropriate food (frozen chews are particularly soothing during teething).

• Suitable for puppy chewing: rubber Kong-style toys (stuffed/frozen), puppy rope toys, soft natural chews (bully sticks, collagen sticks), frozen carrots, puppy-specific dental chews
• Caution: raw bones (splinter risk depends on size and type; consult your vet), cooked bones (fracture and splinter risk — avoid)
• Avoid for puppies: hard antler chews, hard nylon bones, very small chews that are swallowable whole
• Supervision: always supervise a puppy with any chew item until you know how they interact with it; remove when a chew becomes small enough to swallow whole

Redirecting inappropriate chewing: the management approach

Management is the first line of defence: if the puppy cannot access the shoes, cables, chair legs, and books, they cannot chew them. During the active chewing developmental phase, puppy-proof the areas your puppy has access to — cable management, furniture leg covers if needed, closed doors — just as you would child-proof a toddler's environment. When you catch the puppy chewing something inappropriate, do not scold. Simply remove the item calmly (or the puppy from the item) and immediately offer an appropriate chew. Mark and reward when they engage with the correct item. Over time, this redirection shapes a preference for appropriate chew items.

Enrichment chewing: making it work for you

Rather than viewing chewing as a problem to manage, it helps to see it as an enrichment need to meet. A puppy whose chewing drive is met with a frozen Kong, a bully stick, or a food-stuffed toy at predicted high-chewing times (post-meal, before a nap, when settling in the crate) is a puppy who has less motivation to chew the sofa. Stuffed and frozen Kong toys in particular are one of the most versatile training and management tools available — they occupy a puppy for 15–30 minutes, provide mental enrichment, and create a positive crate association if given inside the crate.